Holy complex: Thay Pagoda is situated at the foot of Sai Son Mountain in
Phuong Cach Commune, Ha Tay Province, around 30km southwest of Ha Noi.
— VNA/VNS Photos Phung Trieu
The poetic
beauty of the pagoda has inspired many of Vietnam's painters and
writers. The best-known images of the pagoda are closely related to
those flowers.
Readers may be interested to know that the gao is
often planted outside village gates because of the propitious colour of
its flowers.
The soft white down in the heart of the huge flowers
is often used by villagers to make superb pillows. And juice from the
thorn-covered bark can be used as a type of antibiotic on open cuts and
small wounds.
Returning to the beautiful Buddhist monument on a
recent hot day, my eyes were refreshed by those resplendent flowers,
which are closely attached to my childhood in the countryside.
While
the pagoda is well-known locally, it's not so popular with foreign
tourists and expats. But it truly is a sight worth seeing, especially
this time of the year!
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| Popular: Water puppetry performances are held during the third month of the lunar calendar each year. |
The
pagoda is situated at the foot of Sai Son Mountain in Phuong Cach
Commune, Quoc Oai District in old
Ha Tay Province, now part of Hanoi, about 30km southwest of the heart of the capital city.
The
pagoda was built in the 11th century during the reign of King Ly Nhan
Tong. The abbot was Tu Dao Hanh who was well-known for his humility and
generosity towards the poor.
Legend has it that Hanh invented
water puppetry to mark the lives of the rural population. Since then,
the art from the area has become popular nationwide.
During the
pagoda's festival (the third lunar month), performances are held in the
middle of the Long Tri pond located in front of the pagoda.
Thay
Pagoda consists of three buildings parallel to each other: Ha Pagoda,
Trung Pagoda, and Thuong Pagoda. The outer one, Ha Pagoda, is the place
for offerings and ceremonies; the middle one, Trung Pagoda, is for
worship of the Buddha; and the inner and highest is set aside to worship
Tu Dao Hanh.
In Trung Pagoda, there is a sandalwood statue of Tu
Dao Hanh sitting on a red lacquered shrine trimmed with gold and
covered with a curtain. To explore this section, it's necessary to climb
up nearly 100 stone steps.
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Worth the effort: Cac Co cave is only accessible via steep rocks that attract sure-footed and enthusiastic visitors. — VNS Photo Bach Lien |
The
tranquility of the pagoda is a delight for all visitors all year round,
but local guide Tran Phuong Nga says during the present lunar March, it
can welcome up to 80,000.
"Many
Vietnamese believe the pagoda is a sacred site. This makes it one of the most visited in the north," said Nga.
Ceremonies
connected with the Thay Pagoda Festival consist of bathing Tu Dao
Hanh's statue, burning incense and escorting sacred objects around the
temple in procession.
There are also the cheo (popular theatre) plays, chess games - and, of course, the water puppet shows.
Nga
said Hanh died sitting in meditation without food and drink for months.
His dried body became an object for veneration until the Ming invaders
who ruled
Vietnam from 1407 to 1427 took it further up the mount and
burned it.
The locals collected his ashes, mixed them with earth
and made a statue for worship. From then on, the mount was called the
Burning Mount.
In the past, during the festival, local young men
and girls used to meet and declare love to each other in Cac Co cave
inside the pagoda.
Locals still believe that if a single girl or boy enters the cave, he or she can quickly find a soulmate.
There
is even a well known
Vietnamese folk song that goes: "Single girls long
for Cac Co cave; single boys miss Thay pagoda's festival".
However,
it is very difficult to enter the cave. It can only be attempted on a
dry day, because access is via steep rocks that become treacherous after
rain.
The cave holds an astonishing secret. It holds 3,600
skeletons of Vietnamese soldiers who were walled in when fighting
against Chinese invaders. It is deep and dark. We hired a flashlight and
stepped carefully. After climbing several staircases, we saw a huge
stone enclosure full of skeletons. An altar was being installed in front
of it.
To get to the famous pagoda,take the bus from Giap Bat
station. Or, by road, follow the Thang Long Highway heading out to Hoa
Lac (from the centre of Hanoi). The turn off to the pagoda is on the
right-hand side close to Quoc Oai District about 20km out of town.
Vietnamnews